|  | Topic : How to Change the "Fn" Drive Belt |  |
| | | AZCactus | | Taranis |  |  | | Reg. Date | : | 01/05/2013 | | Posts | : | 4,524 | | Location | : | AZ |
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| | Posted : 02 Mar 2018 - 11:51 Post title : Re: How to Change the "Fn" Drive Belt 2nd Time. (Re: GerPa) | | | Ok so it sounds like Triumph over engineered the gear/pulley.
| 2009 Thunderbird 1700 Big Bore
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| | | davetac1 | | Thunderbird | | | Reg. Date | : | 06/09/2010 | | Posts | : | 8,379 | | Location | : | Haverhill, Ma., United States |
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| | Posted : 03 Mar 2018 - 04:46 Post title : Re: How to Change the "Fn" Drive Belt 2nd Time. (Re: AZCactus) | | | My belt and gears were still original when I traded it,and that's with "OVER" 125,000 miles showin on the clock.However,I did buy a new belt as a "just incase"but didn't need it.So I let it go with the bike when I traded it.But if the new owner goes by the SM and sets it tight,then he/she will have the same problems the rest of us had.But IMO,Triumph's problem was,they set the belt too fuckin tight.The belt on my new ride is way looser then Triumphs' belt was and that's the way I'll reset it when the time comes for a new rear tire.
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| | | daz | | Zeus | |  | | Reg. Date | : | 12/05/2009 | | Posts | : | 7,686 | | Location | : | United States |
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| | Posted : 14 Aug 2021 - 13:42 Post title : Re: How to Change the "Fn" Drive Belt 2nd Time. (Re: GerPa) | | | GerPa, did u use red locktite on the pulley bolts when u put it back on?
Also, what are your thoughts on the triumph manual where it says that after swingarm removal and reinstall you have to tighten the RH adjuster to the point the belt is over tensioned to "settle the swingarm position" or else the belt might loosen up after you adjust the tension and come loose. Seems odd. I suppose i will do it since it says too but in your description i didn't see you mention that.
| 2010 Blue/White Thunderbird, "Brutus". 1700 kit, short tors, gutted cat, UNI filter, filter seal off, custom tune. Brutus in his native habitat: Link
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| | | GerPa | | Jupiter | |  | | Reg. Date | : | 10/12/2011 | | Posts | : | 1,919 | | Location | : | Mackay, Central Queensland, Australia |
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| | Posted : 15 Aug 2021 - 07:39 Post title : Re: How to Change the "Fn" Drive Belt 2nd Time. (Re: daz) | | | Hi Daz
No. I never ever did that, In all my adjustments I have ALWAYS endeavored to set the adjusters as near as possible to be exactly the same, and have always allowed for 18 to 21mm slack in the belt measuring it on the top side just in front of the Chrome Belt guard as that is the Drive side of the belt.
All over the world I have never heard of running a belt of any description on the piss either way to get it to track. sent em up straight and they will find "their own place where they are comfortable to run.
I used to be paranoid about getting it to run to the RHS/Outside and they all of a sudden with nothing changed it decided to run towards or about 1/8' from the inside/LHS. so that where it has been for ever. I dont even loosen the adjusters off any more to remove the wheel to do a tyre change. I just leave them "Set and Forget" and the belts finds it happy place.
|  May-2011-1600, 20306 Tune, Mustang Vintage Solo Seat, Meerkat Cat Bypass, + Meerkat Modified Short TORS   ,K&N Air Cleaner,K&N Oil Filter, JBQ lifting system, Gold Plug Magnetic Sump Plug,Dart Fly screen, Rivco Risers, GiPro Gear Indicator, Breakaway Cruise Control, Avon ISO Grips, Scorpion Western Low Handlebars, Kury Switchblade Pegs, Garmin Zumo390LM,Michelin RC2 on Front RC 3 on ,Modified Rear Drive Pulley Hub Bearings (Mat1600/Alex4 Modification) Front Susp: Std & 7.5W Oil /126mm Air Gap & Rear:Hagon Nitro's with 26Kg/cm Springs + Lots of other "Bling" stuff.
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| | | daz | | Zeus | | | | Reg. Date | : | 12/05/2009 | | Posts | : | 7,686 | | Location | : | United States |
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| | Posted : 15 Aug 2021 - 20:28 Post title : Re: How to Change the "Fn" Drive Belt 2nd Time. (Re: GerPa) | | | I think u may have misunderstood what i was saying In the manual it does NOT say to tighten the hell out of the belt and run it like that. But it says after you put the swingarm back on and get everything back on, tighten the hell out of the belt and then loosen it back up to whatever the preoper tension is to run it at, IT: the 3/4" at 10 Lbs or whatever that is. They say doing that sort of sets the swingarm back in which assume means if you DON'T do that and instead just adjust it as normal, the swingarm may pull back somehow while riding and the belt could run super loose causing it to derail. Thats what i assume they are saying, but heres the warning in the manual...
| 2010 Blue/White Thunderbird, "Brutus". 1700 kit, short tors, gutted cat, UNI filter, filter seal off, custom tune. Brutus in his native habitat: Link
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| | | GerPa | | Jupiter | | | | Reg. Date | : | 10/12/2011 | | Posts | : | 1,919 | | Location | : | Mackay, Central Queensland, Australia |
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| | Posted : 15 Aug 2021 - 22:19 Post title : Re: How to Change the "Fn" Drive Belt 2nd Time. (Re: daz) | | | I understood exactly what you said originally. The Swing arm is mounted on bearings and a straight shaft and cant go anywhere except pivot up and down. ( Unless you leave it loos it might move sideways) So Again NO I did not on both occasions ever overtighten the belt to seat the swing arm.
| May-2011-1600, 20306 Tune, Mustang Vintage Solo Seat, Meerkat Cat Bypass, + Meerkat Modified Short TORS ,K&N Air Cleaner,K&N Oil Filter, JBQ lifting system, Gold Plug Magnetic Sump Plug,Dart Fly screen, Rivco Risers, GiPro Gear Indicator, Breakaway Cruise Control, Avon ISO Grips, Scorpion Western Low Handlebars, Kury Switchblade Pegs, Garmin Zumo390LM,Michelin RC2 on Front RC 3 on ,Modified Rear Drive Pulley Hub Bearings (Mat1600/Alex4 Modification) Front Susp: Std & 7.5W Oil /126mm Air Gap & Rear:Hagon Nitro's with 26Kg/cm Springs + Lots of other "Bling" stuff.
| | Post edited by GerPa on 15 Aug 2021 - 22:20 |
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| | | daz | | Zeus | | | | Reg. Date | : | 12/05/2009 | | Posts | : | 7,686 | | Location | : | United States |
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| | Posted : 15 Aug 2021 - 23:46 Post title : Re: How to Change the "Fn" Drive Belt 2nd Time. (Re: GerPa) | | | ok, and i agree. Thats why i asked, because i was hoping you would either agree with my notion that mirrors what you just said, or have an idea why the manual suggested that. It makes no sense to me either and i didn't want to have to do that because it would mean having to readjust the alignment which on mine is a PITA. I never touch the adjusters unless i have too even when replacing the tire. I just leave them where they are and lever the wheel back against the pulley tension till the axl lines up with the hole.
| 2010 Blue/White Thunderbird, "Brutus". 1700 kit, short tors, gutted cat, UNI filter, filter seal off, custom tune. Brutus in his native habitat: Link
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| | | fab | | Thor | |  | | Reg. Date | : | 12/10/2009 | | Posts | : | 2,515 | | Location | : | wyong, nsw, Australia |
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| | Posted : 18 Aug 2021 - 07:11 Post title : Re: How to Change the "Fn" Drive Belt 2nd Time. (Re: daz) | | | daz aren't you putting a new belt on? if so you will have to readjust the belt to suit.
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Remember, soft cocks hang around all life long, hard ones come and go
ahh f**k im deep
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| | | daz | | Zeus | | | | Reg. Date | : | 12/05/2009 | | Posts | : | 7,686 | | Location | : | United States |
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| | Posted : 18 Aug 2021 - 14:25 Post title : Re: How to Change the "Fn" Drive Belt 2nd Time. (Re: fab) | | | I know. But if u r referring to my saying i don't want to touch the adjusters, i realize i will likely have to. But i don't want to touch them till the new belt is on because it's set to run perfectly as far as alignment and i think that shouldn't change too much with the new belt. If i did what the manual said it would just make it much harder to retain a reasonable alignment which is why i didn't want to do that. But i will no doubt have to adjust tension. However,. if i leave the adjusters where they are till everything is back together, then i can adjust tension w/o fucking up the alignment by carefully adjusting the left side exactly the same amount as it took on the right to get the tension right. Then i can fine tune alignment. Trust me, i've spent a ridiculous amount of time with this belt in my 12 years with the bike and i know it's quirks when it comes to the belt, and as you know it's different for everyone. One thing i have found is if i lose my place with alignment i am in for a major PITA getting it right again. I've read a lot of posts from others and how they go about it and mine just doesn't respond the same. One reason i don't want to touch more than i have to is because early on when i was learning about it i ran it too hard right w/o realizing it and chewed up the right side of the belt. Even with the difference between the old belt and new i doubt there will be enough difference in how hard right they run with the adjusters where they are now to cause that to happen. Then once i'm sure it's running with reasonable alignment THEN i can adjust tension w/o throwing alignment way off.
Anyways thats just the way it works for me and i've been problem free for years since i stopped messing with the adjusters and remove/replace the wheel w/o touching the adjusters. I got the new belt yesterday late so i didn't put it on, but i did remove the swingarm yesterday. It was much easier then i thought it would be. I will be putting the belt on and finishing the job in just a bit. I have to make a socket to adjust the swingarm tensioner tho. I was able to loosen it with my shock adjuster tool, It was just about the perfect width and thickness and i cut a slight bit off the rounded end to square it and used a wrench on it to turn it. But to reinstall in need to make a socket like GerPa did so i can get the torque right.
| 2010 Blue/White Thunderbird, "Brutus". 1700 kit, short tors, gutted cat, UNI filter, filter seal off, custom tune. Brutus in his native habitat: Link
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| | | mag10 | | Set | |  | | Reg. Date | : | 05/02/2010 | | Posts | : | 482 | | Location | : | Wisconsin, United States |
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| | Posted : 20 Aug 2021 - 12:41 Post title : Re: How to Change the "Fn" Drive Belt 2nd Time. (Re: daz) | | | this is what I have been doing with my belt all along (not saying that it is the best way, just what worked out). Earlier on, after the initial belt issues were addressed and the belt was running straight and centered.
I measured, with the depth rod on my dial calipers (yes, I am old) from the end of the adjuster down to the back end of the swing arm. Measured both sides and wrote that down. The right / left numbers are not the same, which does not matter, as those are relative measurements.
I keep putting the adjusters back to the same measurement after each tire change. It is pretty easy. It also does not matter if the bike is still up with wheel off the ground because you are setting it to a number value, not feeling you belt tension (as it was already established).
now since you are changing out the belt, the measurements that you get now are not likely to apply directly, but they will be close and they will establish the differential measurement between one side and the other. So long as you are using the same adjusters and swing arm.
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| | | daz | | Zeus | | | | Reg. Date | : | 12/05/2009 | | Posts | : | 7,686 | | Location | : | United States |
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| | Posted : 20 Aug 2021 - 14:56 Post title : Re: How to Change the "Fn" Drive Belt 2nd Time. (Re: mag10) | | | But thats exactly what i tried at one pint and it never worked for me and i think it may be the swingarm adjuster was too loose as i discussed in that other thread. Because early on i found that mine was so unbelievably sensitive to the tiniest increments that the caliper method didn't work. The reason is i tried a million ways of placing the caliper that would seems rock solid so that it would measure the same every time, but it wouldn't even tho it;s a super accurate one. So i could measure it then pull it away and do it again and every time it would be slightly different because of the way the caliper was situated. I found ways to situate it u would never imagine gound go in differently every time but it did. And the increments while small would matter because mine was so sensitive. But in the end i believe it was because the swingarm adjuster was loose enough for the swingarm to have play so that no matter how perfect you get it it's never going to stay in one place. Now with the swingarm having no play (read my other thread about that in the technical talk foirum) it responds accurately to my adjustments and runs perfectly. Even has zero noise. In fact i wander if the noise, which always happened under accelleration only, may have been the power to the wheel moving the swingarm alignment.
| 2010 Blue/White Thunderbird, "Brutus". 1700 kit, short tors, gutted cat, UNI filter, filter seal off, custom tune. Brutus in his native habitat: Link
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